Today is International Pinot Noir Day and it brings to mind the words of Astrolabe winemaker and co-founder, Simon Waghorn; “If you only had one red wine to be able to make, Pinot Noir would be the one you’d normally choose as a winemaker."
Waghorn is an aromatic wine devotee. He has carved his winemaking name by producing distinctive aromatic white wines but the Pinot Noirs now being produced at Astrolabe are showing the benefits of a similar focus, which is enhancing the style and structure of Pinot Noir from Marlborough’s Southern Valleys. Elevated vineyard sites, warm days and cool nights in these valleys is bringing a powerful structure and dark fruit flavours to Pinot Noir, as the wine below showed when tasted earlier this month.
Over the weekend, I have also had the pleasure of tasting a diverse range of Pinot Noirs from around New Zealand and two that stood out come from one of the edgiest climates anywhere in this country. They are both from Coal Pit Winery in Central Otago's cool climate Gibbston Valley. This valley represents one of the foundation stones of Central's formation as a wine region and it is producers such as Coal Pit that carry the torch of very cool climate viticulture.
What I've been drinking this week - Pinot Noirs
18.5/20
2021 Astrolabe Marlborough Pinot Noir RRP $36
“If you only had one red wine to be able to make, Pinot Noir would be the one you’d normally choose as a winemaker,” says Astrolabe co-founder, winemaker and aromatic wine devotee, Simon Waghorn. This outstanding Pinot Noir shows why, highlighting power, structure and dark fruit flavours of black cherries, which are held in a fine balance with lush mid palate weight and a lingering finish.
19.5/20
2019 Coal Pit Tiwha Pinot Noir RRP $98
A big wine made in small volumes from hand picked grapes grown in the cool climate Gibbston Valley, Central Otago. This wine was made with 25% whole bunch fermentation, which brings black cherry aromas to the fore in a six year old wine with youthful structure on its side. A touch of wild herbs adds to the complex mocha and savoury notes. This is beautifully structured now and it will evolve more depth over the next six to seven years.
This wine is a multiple award winner, having garnered awards for the World’s Best Sommelier’s Selection (2024, UK), International Wine Challenge (2023, UK) Gold medal & Trophies - New Zealand Pinot Noir, Central Otago Pinot Noir, Gibbston Pinot Noir and Winestate (2022, Australia) Pinot Noir Trophy.
18/20
2022 Coal Pit Tiwha Pinot Noir RRP $73
Hand picked grapes with 20% whole bunch fermentation bring aromas of thyme, dark cherries and a gentle smoky edge, which will all integrate further over the next six to seven years, evolving into a more complex and savoury Pinot Noir.
